As a leatherworker, shoemaking has always been on my radar as an exciting but somewhat daunting new endeavor. I finally decided to dive into a 2-week shoemaking intensive at Hope & Industry (formerly Stalworth Shoes & Boots) in Santa Fe, NM. I chose to make a pair of vegetable tanned, western style-inspired oxfords.
Following is a photo journal of my 11 days of shoemaking (along with 4 incredible women
who were all such badasses and so fun to hang with during these 2 weeks!)
who were all such badasses and so fun to hang with during these 2 weeks!)
DAY 1
Taking individual foot measurements, picking lasts, deciding on shoe shape and style
Taking individual foot measurements, picking lasts, deciding on shoe shape and style
DAY 2
Getting lasts dialed in to match foot measurements by adding leather layers, grinding and sanding.
Getting lasts dialed in to match foot measurements by adding leather layers, grinding and sanding.
 DAY 3 Dialing in patterns (which is taking me forever because I'm incredibly indecisive and noncommittal) |  DAY 4 Cutting uppers and linings to soul jamz w a b-day hangover and gimp leg! |
Day 5: Skiving edges, conditioning and/or dying uppers and lining, marking seams and sew lines from pattern, gluing and (finally, gulp..) some stitching! Sticking with natural vegtan uppers (which will darken and patina over time) and bright yellow lining because my feet will like it. 👣
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Day 6: Trim edges, punch eyelets, attach tongue to quarters. Cut and skive the shit out of counter (heel) stiffener and toe box.
Day 6: Cut insoles out of 8-9 oz vegtan, soak in water, form to last bottom with 3" elastic wrap.
| DAY 7 Add decorative top stitch to vamp, attach quarters to vamp in 4 parts (both uppers and lining) then top stitch (I opted for 3 lines of stitching vs broguing ) This is called "Closing" (pictured: upper and lining view). Unwrapping leather insoles from lasts, trimming insoles to match last edge, wet lasting (wrapping wet leather upper around insole and last) and nailing in place (for now). Holy shit I'm ready for a glass of wine. (note: leather under lace is temporary spacer) Ready for toebox, shank, welt, sole and heel! |
| DAY 8 Just when you thought you were done nailing a hundred tiny brads into leather and wood... remove nails from last around toe and pull upper away from lining. Add dampened leather toe box piece. Nail into place, let dry, glue, skive, hammer flat. Glue all 3 layers then re-last (nail) upper back in place. Stretch-nail-glue-nail-hammer. Repeat... |
DAY 9
Cement in shank and filler, sand flat, add false welt let cure for 24 hrs. Today was my day to have a meltdown while I tried and re-tried to attach a false welt to my shoe edge. Though decorative, it makes it a helluva lot easier to attach your sole to your shoe.
Cement in shank and filler, sand flat, add false welt let cure for 24 hrs. Today was my day to have a meltdown while I tried and re-tried to attach a false welt to my shoe edge. Though decorative, it makes it a helluva lot easier to attach your sole to your shoe.
DAY 10
Trace and cut sole out of 8/9 oz vegtan. Rough on the sander, cement bottom and edges, cure, soak in water. Attach to shoe by rolling, hammering, and jumping up and down while head banging. Complete with triumphant fist pump (and sip of rosé on ice, at the ready). Cut off excess on 5-in-1 and (maybe) wrap entire shoe with elastic to cure overnight. Ready for heel and final sand tomorrow!
Trace and cut sole out of 8/9 oz vegtan. Rough on the sander, cement bottom and edges, cure, soak in water. Attach to shoe by rolling, hammering, and jumping up and down while head banging. Complete with triumphant fist pump (and sip of rosé on ice, at the ready). Cut off excess on 5-in-1 and (maybe) wrap entire shoe with elastic to cure overnight. Ready for heel and final sand tomorrow!
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DAY 11
Finally finished my veg-tan oxfords! Cut, roughed, leveled and cemented stacked leather heel to shoe. Added heel nails and top lift. Hit the grinder/sander/finisher to shape heel and shoe to welt edge. Final sand, wax, buff.. Condition and burnish upper, pop em off the last and put em on muh feets!
Beyond happy with how these turned out!
Finally finished my veg-tan oxfords! Cut, roughed, leveled and cemented stacked leather heel to shoe. Added heel nails and top lift. Hit the grinder/sander/finisher to shape heel and shoe to welt edge. Final sand, wax, buff.. Condition and burnish upper, pop em off the last and put em on muh feets!
Beyond happy with how these turned out!
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